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Messages - tomme boy

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Archived Buys / Re: 357-190-RF (Legend Bullet) (7)
« on: December 05, 2019, 11:30:57 AM »
Please take me off the list. Going a different direction.

Archived Buys / Re: 357-190-RF (Legend Bullet)
« on: November 28, 2019, 08:48:55 PM »
5 cavity gas check

rcbs top punch

I would not use a tapered shank for either design. It does not work well for bare or coated bullets. You have more of a chance to seat the check square if it is straight.

If all you use is Hornady checks, you can actually make a reverse taper. Then the check will be locked solid and will never come off.

I have not had any problems with any checks with a straight shank.

I mainly use Gator checks and they crimp on and do not come off. I have used Sages aluminum checks on 35cal and they are formed very shallow. And they do not work the best with a tapered shank. As the check is sized it extrudes the check longer and if not seated perfectly it can fall right off. If it is not seated square you will get one side longer than the other.

I run my bullets I am using right now at 0.356" Using Winchester brass this is the MAX you can use. 0.357" works as it will size the whole bullet.

Then go for 342" then. The main problem is the tapered shank. It causes way too many problems. The only mould I have had problems getting checks onto have been a tapered shank. I have never had a problem with Tom's moulds as they have all been a straight shank.

Another reason I wanted a 0.341" was because I powder coat. I normally put my checks on after coating. It saves me having to size and check first before coating.

If you are running this with traditional lube then you don't have to worry about too much powder coat on the shank.

Group Buy Discussions / Re: 9x39 Russian/Wolf
« on: November 17, 2019, 06:02:31 PM »
Skip the bullets and measure your bore.

Gas check shank needs to be straight and not tapered. The way it is people will have a hard time seating checks straight. They will also be hard to seat. It needs to be a straight 0.341". This is a deal breaker for me.

The way it is, you may just call this a LEE mold.

Eagle. Why did you go to the 0.357" bore when all 357 mag and 38 spec are a 0.355x0.346-7"?

As long as the reamer was designed right the chamber and throat would be right. Or was the reamer designed around a 0.357" bore?

That was Winchester that had the problem. The Federal you can pull the bullet and there is not crimp in the bullet like what Win was.

This is either a overload, or my barrel has a short throat causing the overpressure situation. Or Federal being Federal and not heat treating their brass

I can not remember if I posted this here. The factory Federal I have seem to be over pressure. All of the ones I have shot the brass is junk. It had ejector swipes and the primers can be pushed in by finger pressure. The case heads expanded WAY too much for the original firing. I took it for being Federal brass as it seems to happen in other cal. using them. But looking at that quikload I feel it is the reason for the expanded case heads.

And that is why I said a version of it. But it is quickload. Not always accurate. I have run the 5744 to 25grs in a ladder test and the primers were just starting to go flat. This was with a 200gr Lee bullet.

Now the factory Federal. They expanded the case head so bad that the brass is unusable. It is way over pressure for at least my gun.

This cartridge is really getting a pain to use in a AR. Bolt guns not so much. The AR guns need the gas to make it run reliable. Only way to get there is load at a high charge weight.

Federal is using 5744. I have the Federal 180gr ammo and I have 5744 powder. They are exactly the same under a microscope. Or a version of it anyway. It had 26grs of HIGHLY compressed powder. I had to dig it out of the case to measure it.

The shorter nose hanging out front unsupported should be more accurate. It looks like the one I came up with has the shortest nose.

As to the internal volume of the case I have not looked at that at all.

Looks good

Lets see what Al says first. It needs to be drawn so it comes out at 0.357" for the diameter. I am sure Al can do this.

But I am in for a 4 cav al gascheck

One thing I noticed on your design, the top lube grove has a 2 diameter band. You will end up with a mess with the lube overflowing that way. You need to have both bands the same diameter. Unless you are PC them then it don't matter.

If you look at the way I did it then you will understand why the placement of the 0.350" is where it is.

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