502 380 RF RG4 HB Great Plains or by another name?

This is what I have in mind

The prototype was made with a hacksaw and lead file from 2 of the new NOE 510 GP, a REAL, #6 flat washer and Gorilla glue. It weighs 360 with the steel washer. The NOE GP back groove will need to stay shallow because of the HB and it will probably obdurate to bore groove diameter with the back band. The second groove from the back will probably need to start shallow and taper deeper towards the front also because of the HB and may need to stretch a bit to get the weight back to 380g. The REAL bands were flattened to around .040 across the flats instead of a sharper edge.. The GP front band was width was reduced to about .080. Band width were taken from a RCBS KT mould.

Frankin prototype

If you haven’t tried a 44 Keith SWC in a 50C sabot and compared the results to the now normal JHP on deer you need to try it (SPECTACULAR!~!!!) and almost always an exit wound.

Then get some of Brownells shotgun wad solvent to get the sabot **** out of your barrel. I tried everything from MEK to paint stripper and Brownells wad solvent is the ONLY thing currently available that will cut sabot fouling. I even tried soaking used sabots in various solvents for several days and all I got was really nice clean old used sabots.

The deep grooves should hold plenty of lube and are a place for fouling to lodge.

If we get enough interest Al may invest some time on a drawing. Until some interest develops, he is busier than a one armed paper hanger and I would much rather he spend time getting moulds out the back door.

I have been posting a bit on CB
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?275956-Hornady-Great-Plains-boolit&p=3539919#post3539919

Have changed lanes on this a bit.

My Lyman lube sizer .501 die is actually 502 which is what I wanted in the first place.

Sized to 502 and turning the grooves to .055W X .475 Dia with a HF “Precision” LOL lathe by a minimalist machinist (me)   Then through the sizer to smooth up and 50% lube.

The bullet nose is in the chuck so is a bit disfigured and a drill chuck in the tail stock with a HB RG mould pin to support the HB end.  Would be surprised if CM and CR are within 4 mils.  Grooving tool is hand filed in a homemade fixture.

I was testing was ability to load a number of shots without cleaning.  I am getting better than expected results on accuracy at 100 yd with these tortured GPs

My cow path for inlines now is:
Modify the 510-380 front end profile to Keith from the “Real Keith” GB.  Using the 360, 412, 454 examples and not the 44 stand alone.
Keep 380g weight
Keep the front band at .120 unless someone sees a reason to make it wider.
Back band .498
All others .502
All grooves ~ .475 X .055
Edge of band facing the HB as square as possible for scraping fouling and still drop well from mould
Lube: Fryxell’s formula  – Alox using moly grease. No more than 50% fill

After the first shot, the modified GP pushes in with my thumb and slides easily to about 1.5” above the charge for as many shots as I have cared to try.  Pushing it home on the charge requires only leaning a bit on the end of the rod.  It is easy to feel and maybe hear it scrape the fouling. Looking at the ramrod, I would guess I’m getting 1/32 or so fouling under the HB.  More force or tamping only disfigures the poor nose more.

Cleaning is almost nothing.

After the last shot one time I pulled the breach plug and rammed one with about 50% lube all the way through.  It was easy to see the fouling in the empty groove space and chunks under the back of the barrel.  Tossed the bullet and the plug in the hot soapy water used for cleaning and scrubbed it off with a tooth brush.  The bands were scraped up some.  There was plenty of support surface on all bands to keep it well centered in the bore.

The inline has mostly been used for hunting season and with Pyrodex.  It works well with a REAL and FFG for 2 or 3 shots.  My shooting is probably 99% smokeless center fire.

I gave a friend a bunch of these to try in his inline and am waiting for feedback.

This idea is for modern inlines only.  As cast it is perfect for my old Lyman trade rifle and probably any other of the old traditional with variable bores and deep grooves.  That was the original design idea.