How do you guys lube your brass before sizing?

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  • #488981
    Full.Lead.Taco
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      I’ve tried several ways over the years to lube my brass cases: lube pads, squirt spray lubes, aerosol spray lubes like one-shot, sizing wax like Imperial or Hornady Unique, etc…  I’ve found that some work better than others, some cost more than others, some smell way worse than others, and other differences.  I was wondering what process you guys use to lube your brass.  I now mostly use the sizing wax type lubes like Imperial Sizing Die Wax & Hornady Unique Case Lube.  I like the way it works, I never get stuck cases,  and my wife doesn’t complain about stinky smells.  Up until recently, I would just get a little bit on my fingers and wipe the case before running it through the sizing die.  While this process works does work great–it is a bit slow when doing lots of brass.  This is how I lube my brass now, it works well for me and saves me lots of time.  If this helps any of you out, I am glad.  If you have other ways that work well and are fast, please share.

      How I do it: https://youtu.be/eUiu6w0yFXc

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    • #505607
      adamsutherland
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        Hornady Unique applied with the fingers.

        #505608
        gwpercle
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          My favorite way is spraying on Lee case lubricant (the white stuff in the tube) after mixing it with denatured alcohol.    I squeeze 1/2 a tube of Lee Case Lube into a jar ,  add the alcohol and shake ,  keep adding a little alcohol and shaking until all the lube is dissolved and no solids remain.  It may separate a little after sitting for a spell but a shake will put it back in suspension.    Get a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle .
          Put cases on a towel ,  mist lightly , roll them around and mist lightly again.  Let dry for a minute.
          The Lee lube is not greasy and can be cleaned with a damp wash rag.
          It is water soluble but the alcohol mix makes it dry very quickly.
          For tough resizing jobs nothing beats STP…greasy stuff is sometimes needed.  But most normal sizing the Lee spray-on lube works great .  It doesn’t “stink” and relatively inexpensive.
          Gary

          #505609
          Full.Lead.Taco
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            For tough resizing jobs nothing beats STP…greasy stuff is sometimes needed.  But most normal sizing the Lee spray-on lube works great .  It doesn’t “stink” and relatively inexpensive.
            Gary

            Isn’t STP petroleum based?  I’ve yet to find a sizing job that Imperial Sizing Wax couldn’t do.

            #505610
            brigettecuneo
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              I like your method of the gloves and a large bin. Fast work there. I normally am only loading batches of 100 or 50 at a time depending on calibers these days and go the slow route of using the imperial wax by hand around the rim and mid section of the case.
              I also use the dry imperial powder when I’m neck turning my long range rifle rounds. Works great.
              Back in the day when I had my Dillion loading a lot more, I used a large cookie sheet, sprayed the Dillion case lube on them and shifted the pan back and forth a couple times to coat them on all sides. Made quick work, especially with the smaller .223 and . 204 calibers.

              #505611
              devinfry
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                I mix a tube of Lee case lube with a 16oz of 91% rubbing alcohol. Put it in a spray bottle and spray it on. Once it is dry I am ready to size them. The 91% alcohol is more available so I use it the more alcohol the better and faster dry time.

                #505612
                AlvinYork
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                  I have had cases stuck in sizing dies so bad the only thing left to do was to drill them out. It used to happen quite regularly even with various commercial lubes. After googling, I found a post somewhere where the gentleman swore up and down Lanolin was all you needed. I tried it and it works great without any bad smell.

                      4oz Lanolin (about $4.50 on Amazon)
                      around 8oz rubbing alcohol (typically I’ll use the 70% stuff but the 91% is fine)
                  Put the oil and alcohol in a bottle with a sprayer ala gwpercle and dkf.
                  Put the cases in a plastic coffee “can”. Shake the spray can vigorously and spray down the cases, shaking and rolling them around to get the oil on them.
                  Let them sit for the alcohol evaporates (I guess the 90% stuff would be quicker)
                  Size, expand and whatever else you need to do short of priming and charging.
                  Wash them off and dry them.

                    I only lube the cases if I have a problem with the first few cases or the case type has a history of sticking in the sizing dies. I suppose STP would work. I like STP for restoring bolts and the like that are just rusted together with some kind of covalent bond or something :o. You toss them in a can filled with STP and let them sit a week. After that the bolts, or whatever, come right apart.

                  #505613
                  steveleonard
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                    I’ve always just used RCBS sizing lube on a pad for rifle cartridges. I only do batches of maybe 100 or so now, at the most. For pistol/revolver I always use carbide sizers and don’t lube those cases at all.

                    #505614
                    toddlaudenbach
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                      I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax, started using this after I got a 308 LC case stuck in my brand new SB sizing die. it was the first round and the can of one shot I had must have been sitting to long or I didn’t shake it up enough. 3 hours later I had that case out and now I use the wax on everything

                      #505615
                      k7sparky
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                        I started with the RCBS lube and pad in the 70s and changed to various sprays in the 90s.

                        Now I’m using the Frankfort Arsenal spray.  There was some guy that made a mix I would buy at WAC (Washington Arms Collectors) that worked fine also.  All the same spray, shake and let dry.

                        When I run out of current stock I’m goin’ Alvin York route.  Got a big tub of lanolin.  Never thought about it.

                        After sizing with the RCBS it was sonic cleaner and solvent.

                        Now hot water and any of the grease lightning type products and dry.

                        Toss into vibrator polisher.  Fine grind walnut shells and Frankfort Arsenal orange polish as of late.  When I get a pile of dirty ground shells I wash with any of the grease cutters and rinse several times.  Don’t worry about a tiny bit of soap left.  Dry in sun summers and on wood stove winters.

                        #505616
                        williamcary
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                          I’ve tried them all too.  Anhydrous Lanolin is the best…..and cheapest.  I get a cheap 2 oz fingertip spray bottle in the cosmetics section at Wal-Mart for application on cases.  Squirt about 1/2-3/4 inch layer in the bottom of the spray bottle.  It doesn’t take much, as anhydrous lanolin is some slick stuff!!  Top it off with 91 or 99% rubbing alcohol.  The lower the %, the longer it takes to dry before actually sizing the cases.  I take a cool whip tub and fill it half-way up with cases.  Hit it with a couple sprays, then shake.  Repeat at least once, twice is better.  Here is the cool part……if you shake and swirl the cool whip tub, the cases will eventually stand up so the case mouth is pointing up.  LIGHTLY spritz the case mouths with the spray and you won’t get the “chatter” when pulling back through the sizing button.  Another added benefit is the shoulder datum line on the case will be much more consistent.  Believe me, if a case wants to “grip” the sizing button, you are moving brass in the shoulder area, thus changing the shoulder angle ever so slightly and this causes inconsistent headspace in each particular piece of brass.  Some cartridges are more susceptible than others, but they will all do it to some degree if the neck isn’t lubed correctly.  Long story short, try the lanolin and a cool whip tub, I think you will like it. 

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