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Jugular1
Fairly new to the casting scene & so far I actually like casting more than reloading.
My question is about mold lubricants. I’ve heard of a quite a few…the store bought & DIY types like bees wax, mineral oil, synthetic 2cycle ext…
Was listening to a thread on Elvis ammo about using anti-seize. I think it has merit due to the temperature it can withstand & retention in how often you have to reapply, but question the type of anti-seize used on different metals in the molds. Copper, nickel, metal free vs molds made from steel, aluminum & brass.
•••Can anyone validate any experience using Anti-seize & if or what compounds my be harmful to the different molds?•••
Jugular1
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Mike B.
Oh Boy… I tend to think that … You are going to hear all sorts of opinions on this and other subjects…
With everyone expressing their opinion on the matter … of course they are all right with no one being able to change what they believe is right…
So… in the course of things … What you use and how you use it will depend on whom you take your advice from…
NOE for instance offers as an option when one purchases a mould to select a bottle of sprue plate lube & the needed allen wrenches … for a couple of dollars ($3) more to be included in the shipment with the mould to you…
It is a good product… & it works too …
Plus you can also order one or more bottles of the aforementioned lube separately if you wish… or a single bottle and the allen wrenches to adjust the set screws and mould screws on your NOE moulds …
Below is the quote from one of the NOE store pages … with a brief explanation on its use …
Sprue Plate Lube Three convenient bottles (2 Drams Ea.) To use bring mould up to casting temperature. Fill cavities with your melt. Cut sprue. Dampen a Q-tip with lube and lightly coat top of blocks (with cavities filled) and bottom of sprue plate. Wipe off excess with clean end or Q-tip. One drop goes a long way. This should go along way in keeping your mould like new.
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/product-category/bullet-casting-reloading/sprue-plate-lube/
Along with each and every mould, included in the shipping container, is a small flier with a procedure to break in & maintain your mould…
So in the long run it is the mould manufacturer that will recommend what it feels is the proper set of instructions to properly maintain their particular moulds…
So sit back and enjoy the replies…
Take Care, & Stay Safe…
WALEONE
Mike B is correct, you will receive no shortage of opinions on this subject. Probably as many as if you would have asked for opinions on bullet lube! They will the gamut from helpful to ridiculous, such as; “I have been using nothing but 50-50 pig snot and whale vomit for 87 years and all my molds are like new”. For myself, I like the NOE sprue plate lube as well as synthetic 2-stroke oil. I found using bullet lube on a hot mold works also, but it is harder, for me, to not apply too much and not contaminate the cavities. I have also had success using DAG-156 (Colloidal Graphite in Isopropanol Alcohol), although I find I have to apply it to the sprue plate with the mold upside down to keep it from spreading into unwanted areas and I have not tried it on a hot mold because of the alcohol content. I have not tried never-seize yet, but I agree in theory with your reasoning on the subject. One day, when I remember, I will try it as I have several different types of never-seize in the shop where I cast. As far as what type of never-seize to try, I would look for one that the manufacturer recommends for the same metal the mold if made from (aluminum, brass, steel/iron, etc.).
matthewtroiano
I would think that antiseize such a viscous material you could stand a chance of the mold not closing all the way. One could apply it just the right amount in the right place and that would probably not be an issue. Only one way to find out is try it.
In jest I look at a bottle of antiseize and it’s everywhere.
Mike B.
WALEONE
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