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jeffsmith
Hi. I just got this yesterday, and have never used a mold of this type before. It seems simple enough to use if I can keep from dunking the ball 😮
My question is regarding making it ready to use. The plug will slide into the hole with the handles closed, but I think maybe that isn’t how it’s supposed to be used? It wants me to push it in and turn it to lock it.
Simple instruction on do’s and don’ts from someone with experience with this type of mold would be greatly appreciated.
Thx
jeffsmith-
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georgeafenleyiii
Hi 357TC,
Got one of these moulds too. And it isn’t my first Black Powder Cartridge. Your observation of inserting the plug (before casting, you wont forget to put it in a second time) and removing plug before opening the mould is correct. This is, of course is very time consumming. Drop the plug on a rough surface could damage it and then it wont fit. Forget to put the plug back in is worse because then the molten lead will pour out the bottom and spatter all over your lower extremeties. Wont happen more than once either.
I guess what you’re looking for is above plus how to use the plug. Look at the mould, you’ll see concentric rings. Looks like each ring is 50 grs apart. Turn out the locking screw in the wooden handle and seat the plug stem all the way in and place in the mould half with the screw and turn the knob to secure it. Line it up with the bottem ring that would be 500 grns, the next ring up would be 450 grns. And so on to 300 grns. The plug stem needs to be move to each ring or even in between the rings if that works better for you and then lock in with the screw in the handle. Not awfully tight, just snug. It will likely tighten more as it heats up.
Clean the mould as per instructions would be nice and in the long run be better. A short cut would be to start casting right away. You’ll cast for a longer period before getting acceptable bullets. The best instructions I seen so far has included with the mould. I don’t have a hot plate, yet.
I don’t know how you are planning to use the bullets. So next comes the paper and template. http://www.buffaloarms.com sells both. Templates are in stock paper isn’t. Paper is 9# Onion skin, measured thickness is .002. Three paper wraps at .002 is .006 plus the .452 with WW adds up to the bore dia at .458. Change your alloy, likely change you paper thickness too.
Books on paper patching aren’t exactly legion. http://www.buffaloarms.com again has them. Paul Mathews has one maybe two books written on paper patching and a Randolph Wright also has two books, one is devoted to the Schuetzen type compitition and one on paper patching match grade BPC.
This is a bit wordy. If you already know most of this, I apologize. Hope this helps. Thanks GeorgeThanks for the reply. Most of this I had figured out. My question I guess, is will I hurt it by putting it in and taking it out with the mold closed. It seems like that’s how it wants to work and is lot less time consuming, but I don’t want to damage the mold.
This is a great design, I really like the adjustablility. Im not getting the advertised weights, but I’m ok with that. I can get a 240 (2 rings showing) up to about 470. I intend to make some 300’s for a 45LC project I have been working on. I powder coat, so I think (untested) I should be good for diamater.
Thanks again
Hi, I don’t think that will hurt it as long you’re using a soft touch. I’ve never used a coating on my bullets. Once I tried Lee’s tumble lube, but never kept it up. I believe it worked OK. Good luck. I live in the NE, still got 3-4 feet of snow. It will be late spring before I can get outside to cast. Thanks George
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