Hints and Tips for casting with NOE Moulds

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This is my procedure for casting with one of our moulds the first time

Cleaning is very simple, hot water, dish washing soap and a tooth brush
use enough hot water to scrub and rinse it with to get you mould warm.
Dry with a clean hand towel.

Next install blocks on handles
At this time check and make sure the hinge bolt is adjusted properly (see “Adjusting a
set of NOE Mould Handles:  ) to let the block close with good alignment – all handles are
not created equal. Our handles have a spring washer that helps eliminate most of this problem

Heat cycling the mould
I use a electric hot plate to heat my mould, I also use a digital thermometer
with a probe to check the temperature
Run the temperature up to about 350F to 375F and then let cool back down
to room temperature – do this 3 or 4 times
This will help seat the alignment pins and start the oxidization build up on the cavities
This oxidization will help in the bullets releasing from the cavities

Pre heat your mould
Again I use a electric hot plate to preheat my mould and a digital thermometer
with a probe to check the temperature
Pre heat your mould to about 350F to 380F before you even think about casting with it

Smoking your mould
For a new mould I use a BIC lighter to very lightly smoke the cavities
The key to this is to use a very light coat of smoke
You still want to get air (oxygen) to the cavities to keep building the oxidation
But have enough smoke to promote good fill out and release
As you use your mould the oxidization will build up and smoking will not be required
This is a well seasoned mould and should cast very good

Filling the cavities
I use a ladle to cast with but a bottom pour has about the same steps
I make the first pour with the spout of the ladle against the sprue plate
About 90% of the time this bullet will have small whiskers and any
loose smoke on it from the cavity – but generally could be called a keeper
Some moulds like a little pressure to get good fill out and others like a little
stream to let the air move as the lead enters
You kind of have to find the “sweet spot” and play with it.

Letting the sprue cool and cutting the sprue
I don’t have a real count for the time it takes for the sprue to cool
I watch for it to “set up” then tap the sprue plate with my mallet to open it
This is more of a feel type thing – the key is to let it “set up”

Opening the blocks
Before I even try to open the blocks I start to tap very lightly on the hinge bolt
on the handles – I use a tap, tap, tap as I open the handles with very little pressure
Very little pressure is needed to open the blocks this way and it prevents “tearing”
The tap, tap taping has generally loosened up all the bullets and they fall out on opening
If you get one that likes to hold on – tap, tap, tap and it generally falls too

I like to run my mould block temperature up to get frosted bullets
Some time as high as 460F or so and then back down to get a nice mat-gray bullet

The key is to get your casting pot the right temperature (700F to 725F)
Mould blocks (350F to 380F)
And get your mould well seasoned

Mould block temperature is about the biggest problem a caster, new or old will have
and is about the most misunderstood.
Pre-heat your mould to the correct temperature and about 90% of your problems go away!

I have used this procedure on hundreds of our moulds and it hasn’t let me down yet

I hope this helps –

Bullet maker, maker
Swede Nelson

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