- This topic is empty.
-
Topic
-
mriman
-
Replies
-
SwedeNelson
mriman
Welcome
We just ran some of thr 311 165Gr RF (new version)
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=71_75We hope to run some of the original in a week or two
Thanks
Bullet maker, maker
Al NelsonIntel6
Ranch Dog had a older design that we ran some time a go
You can see it here:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=71_75&products_id=307&osCsid=kujms395aa6lt1fagisv5o00d2
It has proven to be a great bullet in the Marlins
The new version, my understanding, is that it is just as good in the Marlins but a little more friendly in Winchesters and some of the others
You can see it here:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=71_75&products_id=512&osCsid=kujms395aa6lt1fagisv5o00d2Both are outstanding bullets
Bullet maker, maker
Al NelsonThanks Al,
I actually already have the new version I bought a while back in prep for me getting a Marlin lever in 30-30. I finally got it a few weeks ago and I was able to load up a test round and was dissapointed in that a bullet seated to the crimp groove is too long to work in the new Marlin as it hits the rifiling and it will not chamber all the way. I did some looking and it seems to be somewhat common problem and that most are just seating deeper but that negates the crimp groove which I tend to like to provide a more consistent bullet pull and powder burn. Another option I saw is to trim your brass down so the LOA fits the chamber and you can still crimp.
Just curious of your thoughts on that?
Neal in AZ
mriman
Al,
Just regular WW’s for me. I think it is the throat and/or the micro groove rifiling, this is a brand new Marlin 336BL. I did a search and came up with a couple of people having the same problems so it is not an isolated issue. But there are many (most) who do not have issues so it may not be a big deal.
I messed with it again last night and it looks like I will need to trim my brass 0.038″ below the min trim length to make it work so I willl probably end up doing that and just keep my brass seperated.
By the way, I just got my 10th NOE mould in the mail yesterday, 5 cavity 460 350 for my Marlin 45-70. Can’t wait to try it out!
Neal in AZ
Ranch Dog
The new version, my understanding, is that it is just as good in the Marlins but a little more friendly in Winchesters and some of the others.
Greetings fellows, the big difference in to two is the bore riding nose of the later version.
Prior to 2010, Marlin’s had a lot of slop in them. Some of that slop was the large chamber throat. There might be several theories about why they cut it but I believe it was to resolve chambering issues associated with lever action feed. The original bullet simply plugged the oversized hole.
Around 2010, the period that the serial number appeared on the side of the receiver, Marlins started to tighten up. My personal view is that this happened with Marlin’s association with Hornady and that outfit’s desire to send a pointy bullet out of the Marlin barrel. The chambers started to tighten up (and the feed issues started to increase).
This really whacked Remington in the arse as they believed they could CNC a rifle around a spec drawing and put it together. You can get it together but then the darn thing won’t feed, which they found out. Slowly they learned how much slop to cut in the action to get the cartridge from the tube to the chamber but they kept a SAAMI spec chamber. Mossberg and Rossi do the same thing.
Back to my two bullets. If you have a Mossberg, Remlin, or Rossi; the latter version of my bullet is best for you. If you have a “JM” Marlin with the serial number on the side of the receiver, the same thing, I would use the latter version with the bore rider nose.
In order to get the original bullet to feed in these rifles, you are going to end up sizing the bullet down to get it to reliably feed into the chamber because the huge throat in the chamber is not there. You can size that original down but you start to cut the bullet down at the ogive. I also do not like sizing down the Micro Bands, I like keep that as close to design as possible, because the start to disappear with sizing. In theory, I can produce a clean drawing of a TLC-311-165-RF, either version, and show that it can be reduced to .309″ and still have bands left for lube. In reality, as the bullet passed through a sizing die, excess alloy through shaving or compression, moves to the Micro Bands and you are left with little area for your lube. This leads me to state if your particular needs requires any of my designs to be sided down greater that .0015″, choose NOE’s standard lube groove versions.
The Winchesters have a fairly large throat but it leads down to a SAAMI spec bore quickly. My dad shoots it in is M94 but it has to be sized to .310″ to get an effective OAL.
So back to the the question of which 30 caliber bullet to use in your 30-30 Win rifle:
- [*]The original TLC311-165-RF, use with:
- [*]”JM” Marlins that don’t have the serial number on the side of the receivers.[/list][*]The revised TLC311-165-RF with the bore rider nose:
- [*]”JM” Marlins that have the serial number on the side of the receiver.[*]Mossbergs[*]Rossi Rio Grandes[*]Winchester M94[/list][/list]
In the applications use the bullet as cast or sized to .311″. Size it down to .310 only if you have issues with chambering. Using these recommendations will eliminate 99% of the issues surrounding which bullet to shoot. These are outstanding bullets, I have seen them take hundreds of animals, deer and hogs, on my ranch.
robertabbott
jasonfancher
mriman
Welcome
We just ran some of thr 311 165Gr RF (new version)
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=71_75We hope to run some of the original in a week or two
Thanks
Bullet maker, maker
Al Nelsonno rg version is available.
Zeus77
Ranch Dog had a older design that we ran some time a go
You can see it here:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=71_75&products_id=307&osCsid=kujms395aa6lt1fagisv5o00d2
It has proven to be a great bullet in the MarlinsWhen going to the link above to find the old Ranch Dog 30-30 bullet, I noticed this has the regular lube grooves as opposed to the tumble lube grooves normally used on Ranch Dogs. I was wondering if there is an “older version” of the Ranch Dog 30-30 bullet with the original tumble lube grooves in the store inventory? I am not very familiar with these micro lube groove designs but wanted to try them.
If Michael (RD) reads this, I would like to ask if you were making the choice today for a 90’s model 30AW with JM markings and serial number on the tang, which style grooves would you choose?
I currently shoot water quenched bullets cast from my Lee GB 6 cavity 311041 GC mold lubed with either Lee liquid Alox or a mix of beeswax, Vaseline, carnauba Wax, ATF, and lee alox from a recipe listed on the cast boolits site. With either lube I have not had any lead fouling problems but accuracy is poor above 1700 fps. This is the reason I would like to try your design. I cast with alloy that tests 12 BHN when air cooled and 18 BHN water quenched (using lee hardness tester). I have only used the water quenched bullets sized to .311 with this rifle. Your thoughts on this and alloy recommendations are appreciated. As odd as it sounds, I do not have access to wheel weights but have several thousand pounds of sheet lead as well as about 500 pounds of antimonial lead ingots that I usually alloy with Roto metals super hard to get what I need. I also have use of a XRF analyzer to fine tune my alloy when needed. Thanks in advance!
Zeus
SwedeNelson
Intel6
robertabbott
charlesgilbert
jasonfancher
Zeus77
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.