silicone spray for brass mold lube??

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Just received my 1st NOE mold in .225 5 cavity brass. Was wondering if siicone spray for alignment pins and sprue plate pin(s) would be good to use for brass? I have been casting for about 5 years now in numerous calibers but have always used Lee aluminum molds. If I like this new NOE mold like I think I will then I’m staying with this brand.

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[adamsutherlandModerator]

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The NOE sprue plate lube is the best stuff I have found for the pins and sprue plate, can’t comment on the silicone but I definitely wouldn’t use a spray as there is a likelihood of getting it in the cavities and all you ever want in there is molten alloy.

NOE sprue plate lube and a cotton bud, lightly applied and then wiped of, less is more here.

[Full.Lead.TacoKeymaster]

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Ditto on what Dromia said.  I use the NOE lube and put it on a cotton rag and wipe it on.  Doesn’t take much, and it works well.

[josephdutton]

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Ok thanks guys, I will order some soon and definitely try it!!

[gwpercleParticipant]

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One product that I have found ,  Liquid Wrench Dry Lube ,  when applied with a Q-tip,  can be used in the bullet cavities,  just a thin light coat is all that’s needed and I have used it on the mould block top and underside of the sprue plate to help prevent galling and lead sticking.
Now the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube has an alcohol base and a micro fine dry lubricant that does not run or contaminate or cause wrinkled bullets.  Apply a light film , let dry and cast.
I use NOE lube on the pins and seats  and on the sprue plate pivot .  I’m not sure the dry lube will be enough for these areas.    My problem is I overdo the lube on top of block and under sprue plate which contaminates  and causes wrinkles.  The dry lube doesn’t cause wrinkles….but I’m learning how to apply a thin film of the NOE lube , with a lightly dampened Q-Tip , with cast bullets in the cavities,  then  to use a cloth and wipe off what the Q-tip left  and that get’s  the proper super thin film.  More ain’t better !
I can not speak of the effects silicon would have ,  if you try it and it doesn’t work ,  use acetone and a toothbrush to remove it. 
Gary

[adamsutherlandModerator]

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Why do you feel the need to put anything in the cavities?

[gwpercleParticipant]

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I don’t like to smoke the cavities,  the dry lube takes the place of the smoking but I only use it when breaking in a mould,  after that it’s not needed. 
While applying a film to the top of the blocks with a Q-tip some ran into a cavity,  This was a new mould not yet fully broken in and was balky about releasing bullets,  I wiped it out of the one cavity and upon casting found the bullet just about jumped out of that  cavity ,  so I tried it in all of them…whoo-whee ,  no more balky , open the mould and they dropped right out.
Just something to file in your memory banks if you have a mould that is not dropping and you don’t want to soot it up with smoke.

[adamsutherlandModerator]

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I’m no fan of smoking cavities either. I put them through heating and cooling cycles to get them “oxidised” by leaving them on the multifuel stove in the living room. Never a sticking bullet after that unless there is a Burr on the cavity edge which I have never had yet with a NOE mould.

[timagnewParticipant]

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I do not smoke or spray anything into the mold cavities. I use an electric single burner for the mold heater. I heat the mold while the Lee 4/20 is warming up and usually have keepers from the first cast on. This includes brand new molds. I’ve found spraying anything into the cavities makes for wrinkled boolits

[Author]

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