Sprue cutting without a mallet

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Hi,

Newbie here, but not new to casting. I’ve always used older Lyman single or double cavity, or my Paul Jones custom mould in the past. These molds allow me to cut the sprue(s) by hand wearing welding gloves while I cast.

I’ve borrowed a few NOE molds with 3 to 5 cavities and although I can cut the sprues on the 3 cavity by hand, it takes quite a bit of force. Over 3 and it requires a mallet or my favorite, weighted piece of broomstick.

I’ve seen extension handles on Lee moulds. I was thinking of making a similar handle for a 4 cavity NOE mould I just ordered. Has anyone here done that? Or am I wasting my time. I see that the instructions here for NOE moulds include tapping the hinge pin so I would imagine that the whack on the sprue plate is helpful as well for loosening up the bullets.

Thanks,
Rob

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[adamsutherlandModerator]

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The lee sprue plate handle has a camming action that actually cuts the sprues, it is a bit more than just an extended handle.

The alloy hardness used also has a bearing on the ease of cutting.

Personally I prefer just tapping the sprue plate open with my rawhide mallet, it is also useful for manipulating and alinging the mould halves and sprue plate prior to closing the mould for the next cast.

Also as you say something to tap the mould handles with to help recalcitrant bullets drop is also needed so I prefer just to have the one tool for all my mould casting management.

I don’t wear gloves whilst casting finding them cumbersome and clumsy prefering the better feel and grip that my bare hands give.

[Robert SigondSpectator]

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Thanks for the feedback. I see a lot of guys casting without gloves. I’ve seen what hot liquid can do to skin (hot tar) and at the very least, I’d wear thin leather gloves to have something between me and the lead. But each to his own.

Was not aware that the handle had a camming effect. Guess I need to take a closer look, out of curiosity, if nothing else. I’m wondering if that camming handle does not complicate the moulding process.

By the way, I ordered the mould without the recalcitrant bullet feature.

[adamsutherlandModerator]

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Yes if you don’t wear gloves you must be prepared to be burnt.

As they say” If you fly with the crows then you must expect to get shot.”

In saying that the only times I have had alloy “events” is whilst wearing gloves so one of the reasons why I don’t.

Just to be a tad picayune the recalcitrance is a feature of the bullets not the mould.

[Robert SigondSpectator]

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I did have to do a little searching to find the cam action sprue plate handle that Lee offers. I did not see a photo on their site, but found it elsewhere on the web. Pretty simple design. Easy enough to make. Might work better if it cammed on the handle ears rather than the mold block. I was thinking that a small ball bearing as the cam might work better as well. Good winter therapy project.

[Mike B.Moderator]

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Looking for this web page?
https://leeprecision.com/parts/bullet-casting/blank-molds/custom-6-cavity-mold-parts/

[Mike B.Moderator]

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Here also is the link to the web page that contains the wooden handle.
https://leeprecision.com/parts/bullet-casting/blank-molds/custom-dc-mold-s.u.040-parts/

[Mike B.Moderator]

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Finally, the attachment is a view of the 6 cavity Lee mould showing the cam lever, and the mould half with its mating part.
Take Care, & Stay Safe.

[Robert SigondSpectator]

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Damn, they get more for the cardboard mold box than the wood handle. Hard to justify making one when the parts are this cheap. But I still like the idea of a small ball bearing as the camming surface. We’ll see. Put my new mould thru 4 heat cycles in the oven today. Should be good to go.

[robertpedersen1]

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If you use a bearing, make sure the lubricant and seals can handle the heat.
Even if the seals can hack it, you don’t want a lubricant that’s going to liquefy and work its way past the seals, and all over the mold blocks.

[Full.Lead.TacoKeymaster]

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I’ve found that the tapping with a mallet works well, but once you get a mold hot, you can use a gloved hand to open the mold too.  I prefer the tap.

[Robert SigondSpectator]

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So you can cut the sprues on a 4 cavity mold by hand? I’m impressed. I can do a 3 cav, but not a 5. Guess I’ll see if I can do a 4.

[Full.Lead.TacoKeymaster]

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Yeah, once the mold gets up to temp and you don’t let it cool too long.

So you can cut the sprues on a 4 cavity mold by hand? I’m impressed. I can do a 3 cav, but not a 5. Guess I’ll see if I can do a 4.

[adamsutherlandModerator]

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The trick is to open the sprue plate early before the alloy fully sets up then the resistance is negligible.

The use of a good sprue plate lube is strongly advised so as to prevent lead smearing on the top of the mould and the sprue plate.

[Robert SigondSpectator]

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I always wait for the last sprue to frost to indicate it has set up. Sounds like you are cutting them while at least one or more are in a semi-solid condition.

[Author]

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