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petergallo
I have a new Ruger American Compact 308 on the way and was thinking about getting this custom made. Since NOE makes my favorite molds I thought I post and see if there’s anyone else interested.
I also haven’t done (designed) many rifle bullets, but have custom ordered a couple of dozen handguns bullets, so I’m bit new at rifle bullet design. Once the Ruger is here this may need to tweak around.
Thinking of a big base, something that would allow a wide range of alloys, powders and pressures to work, in the 1,200 to 1,600 FPS range. That may be wishful thinking, but I figure if 1,600 shoots in my 357 Henry, plain and base and no leading, the 308 should be able to do that too. It would be a plinker, target to 200 yards and small game bullet.
Below is the design so far, it’s inspired by a couple of RCBS bullets (love the TMT design software):
Good idea, bad idea?
petergallo
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Replies
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tommeboy
You need more of a driving band on the 170 to make it work. Extend the driving band out 0.10″-0.20″ past the lube groove before you start the taper. Depending on the throat of the available rifles out there will determine which to go with. Plus it will help to be able to drive the bullet a little faster.
Most factory throats are a lot longer than the way you have it right now. You will have to stick the bullet out farther to just touch the lands and the lube groove will be exposed right now.
richarddupraz1
tomme boy:
You brought up a good point and something that this idle mind didn’t think of.
Your reply prompted me to do another throat slug in the Rem. 700P 308. I did one when I got it by using a lead filled case, turning a slug and then starting it down the muzzle. This time, I did it the same only inserted the slug ahead of the case at the breach. A better way. This time I got a true impression of the throat and leade. And the throat measured .170″ from the end of the chamber to the beginning of the leade.
I do have a custom .308 mold that was made a couple of years ago for my 98 Mauser .308 and the smith cut the mold with a wide front band to fit the throat in that rifle. It measures very close to the same dimensions .
So, I think your suggestion is a good one. One more needed detail. This bullet is going to be a great shooter and sure hope we can get the mold made.
SwedeNelson
michaelmclaughlin1
I am looking for something in the 160-170gr range for my 30BR heavy gun. The rifle is built on a Savage target action with a Shilen ratchet type barrel and the twist is 1-13 w/.310 throat. I think I goofed when I selected the barrel as I have a difficult time stabilizing heavy bullets at 200yd. I am primarily using 311299 (just got one from NOE) and have to push them to between 2100 and 2200 FPS. My alloy of choice is lino w/gas check. I like Swede’s idea of flat or HP nose as that would shorten it a little more. I am using Moly as my lube (don’t have to clean and re-foul the barrel during a match) and experimenting with Ws2 so I don’t think I really need a very large lube groove (if at all). Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Mike
I am looking for something in the 160-170gr range for my 30BR heavy gun. The rifle is built on a Savage target action with a Shilen ratchet type barrel and the twist is 1-13 w/.310 throat. I think I goofed when I selected the barrel as I have a difficult time stabilizing heavy bullets at 200yd. I am primarily using 311299 (just got one from NOE) and have to push them to between 2100 and 2200 FPS. My alloy of choice is lino w/gas check. I like Swede’s idea of flat or HP nose as that would shorten it a little more. I am using Moly as my lube (don’t have to clean and re-foul the barrel during a match) and experimenting with Ws2 so I don’t think I really need a very large lube groove (if at all). Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Mike
If you are referring to Al’s two drawing post, that show this design as is stand now. It already is a flat nose and can also be offered as a hollow point.
Looks like my new rifle will be here this coming week, when I’m on the road. In the mean time I thought I’d propose another approach here. A slightly tapered front band that will center in the case mouth, of course the nose will ride in the bore to get that end lined up straight. I almost think a .312 diameter would be better. That would allow some leeway for a slightly oversize throat. That’s a different solution than trying to extend the band to engrave on the lands.
Comments:
billbarry
Swede is right, with no crimping groove, you can set this one up the way you like it, with your seater die. It looks like a great design, and should be a winner.
I should stay out of this, as I’m already set up for 7.62 NATO, but here’s my 2 cents into the discussion – unless you have a worn throat or some other reason for a big bullet, 0.309″ is all the diameter that you need. I know that’s counter culture, but when I’m ordering a mold I ask that it be cut to drop at right at that diameter – I think that they shoot better with minimal sizing.
The point of this post? It would be wonderful if NOE could routinely offer a “tight”option for guys like me. I’d be willing to pay extra to slide the diameter around a few thousands. This would add to the labor involved in production, but if it is possible to make such a thing cost effective, I’d be all for it.
By the way, Mr. Nelson, we all love NOE and appreciate the effort that you have put into supporting the cast bullet shooters of the world – I can’t think of a single mold maker that has higher standards.
daveridenour
You need more of a driving band on the 170 to make it work. Extend the driving band out 0.10″-0.20″ past the lube groove before you start the taper. Depending on the throat of the available rifles out there will determine which to go with. Plus it will help to be able to drive the bullet a little faster.
Most factory throats are a lot longer than the way you have it right now. You will have to stick the bullet out farther to just touch the lands and the lube groove will be exposed right now.
I agree with Tomme. Extend the front driving band out, and keep the size at least .311″. Do that, and I will take a 4 cavity gas check.
If you drop the size back to .309″, it won’t work well in many .308 Winchester throats. I think there’s already one like that now. See: https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=3380
Dave
You need more of a driving band on the 170 to make it work. Extend the driving band out 0.10″-0.20″ past the lube groove before you start the taper. Depending on the throat of the available rifles out there will determine which to go with. Plus it will help to be able to drive the bullet a little faster.
Most factory throats are a lot longer than the way you have it right now. You will have to stick the bullet out farther to just touch the lands and the lube groove will be exposed right now.
I agree with Tomme. Extend the front driving band out, and keep the size at least .311″. Do that, and I will take a 4 cavity gas check.
If you drop the size back to .309″, it won’t work well in many .308 Winchester throats. I think there’s already one like that now. See: https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&langId=en_US&action=ProductDisplay&screenlabel=index&productId=3380
Dave
That’s a two cavity only by RCBS, and is exactly what this was based on. I’m going to check the chamber in my rifle and see what it says. I’m on my way now to pick up the new Ruger. Doing the .100+ band and then the taper is an option for sure.
tommeboy
richarddupraz1
SwedeNelson
michaelmclaughlin1
billbarry
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